I bought a copy of Russian
for Dummies and have been boning up on simple phrases that may come in
handy when I run the Baikal Ice Marathon next month.
Доброе утро, товарищ! Это великолепный день в
России-матушке!
Good morning, comrade!
It is a glorious day in Mother Russia!
Нет воды. Водка!
No water. Vodka!
Kaк
далеко до следующей станции помощи?
How far is it to the
next aid station?
Я
не могу чувстсвовать свою мошонку.
I can no longer feel
my scrotum.
By volume, Baikal is the world’s largest freshwater lake. It contains about 20% of Earth’s unfrozen surface fresh water, more than all the Great Lakes combined. It’s the world’s deepest lake, with a maximum depth of 5,387 feet, and the oldest, 25 million years. The lake is contained in a rift valley—a giant tear in the earth’s crust—which explains both its depth and its long, narrow shape.
While Baikal has been around since the Oligocene Epoch, people have only been
running marathons across it for 12 years. The possibility of charting a
marathon course across the lake is the result of a quirk of geography. The
course traverses the lake near its southern tip, its narrowest point. Running
is also made possible by the weather. Siberia, as you may have heard, is cold
in winter. Lake Baikal is dependably frozen over from mid-February through
March.
Well roughly dependably.
The lake’s ice layer is highly variable. As a result, the organizers do not
make a final determination of the route—including whether we will cross from
west to east or east to west—until the day before the race. They’ve grown more
circumspect in choosing the route since the tragedy of 2008 when Waclaw Pokorny
of Krakow, Poland broke through the ice and drowned. (I jest. Waclaw was able
to safely swim to shore.)
The race organizers
note that Baikal is privy to some 20 varieties of locally formed winds that are
“notoriously difficult to predict.” Siberian khius, while not strong, produce particularly sharp and biting gusts
that can “freeze one’s face…or penetrate to one’s body through any of tiny
openings or holes in sports wear cloths.” (Note to self: check jacket for tiny
openings and holes.)
The running surface
itself, though remarkably flat, also changes en route. Near the eastern shore, the ice may be covered with a few
inches of snow; on the west side, the ice is likely to be clear and polished to
the sheen of a hockey rink. We’re also likely to encounter fields of kolobovnik.
Not to be confused with the Uzbek national dish of the same name, these are
sections of “pan or plated ice with granular tops of blurred color, frozen in
the surface, which represent significant difficulty to run or even walk
smoothly and require carefulness in fast moving on them.” (Note to self:
Practice carefulness in fast moving.)
I think I’m ready
for the khius and kolobovniks. In fact, as luck would have
it, UPS just arrived and left a package containing a very important piece of
gear.
Looks like I may not
need Russian for Dummies after all.
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